Cork leather is considered a non-fray fabric. Non-fray fabrics are fabrics that don't unravel or separate at the edges. It can also be referred to as a non-woven fabric or a bonded fabric. But as I discussed in my previous post, once the cork is cut into thin sheets, it is backed with cotton or cotton/poly fabric. So, while cork leather is non-fray, the backing usually isn't, and it does tend to get rough around the edges with use. But happily, there is a way to help with that!
The first thing I always do if I have a raw edge with my cork is to singe the edge with a lighter, just run the flame along the edge of the cork. A lot of cork backing is a cotton/poly blend, so this will melt the backing fabric slightly and decrease the loose threads. This isn't a permanent solution, but it helps. Many of my pieces I cut on my laser, so it does the burning for me.
After you burn the edges, if you want more protection from fraying, there are a couple options. The fastest and easiest is to use fabric glue to seal the edges. I like Aleene's Fabric Fusion. It isn't overly thick or sticky, so it goes on smoothly. Place a small bead of fabric glue along the entire edge of the cork. I put a couple small dots or a thin line then use my finger to spread it along the edge. Keep a cloth handy to wipe off the glue that might get on the surface of your cork. It will dry clear.
The next way of protecting the edges is with an edge paint. I like Giardini edge paint, but there are other brands. This method takes more time and multiple steps but gives you a very polished and professional finished look to your piece. For edge painting you will start with a basecoat paint, then use a paint color. Optionally you can then apply a topcoat.
Using an edge applicator, paint an even layer over the edge of your piece. Make sure you have enough paint on your applicator to cover the edge but not so much that the paint runs over to the surface of your piece. (If it does get on the surface of your piece, just use a scrap piece of fabric to wipe off the excess while it is still wet.) Once the basecoat is dry, use a small piece of fine grit sandpaper to smooth any uneven bumps along your edge. You will most likely want to apply a second layer of basecoat. Repeat adding the basecoat, allow to dry and sanding down uneven areas until you are happy with the look. The more layer of fabric you are painting, the more layers of basecoat you will need to achieve a smooth and consistent edge.
The next step is to paint the edges of your piece with your choice of color. Use the applicator to paint along your edge in the same method as your painted your basecoat. The paint color should go on smoothly over the basecoat. Allow the paint to dry and determine if you would like a second coat of color. If you applied your basecoat well, one coat of color is often all you need. However, if your color looks uneven or thin, or you are using a dark color, add a second coat of paint.
Once the color is completely dry, you can optionally add a topcoat to help protect the color. The topcoat is applied the same way as the basecoat and color.
There you go, three ways to help protect your raw edges, from super simple to advanced. I hope this helped, and if you would like step by step visual, you can go to my YouTube tutorial on this same topic.
